Reply With QuoteIts always easier to work with one ecu instead of a pigyback that runs interference on the fuel, ignitin etc.
live tuning also helps a lot.
Which one of the above would be better me to use on my B20 build?
I currently have a unichip type a.
Also, the dicktator doesn't seem to be that difficult to hook up according to the circuit diagram.
I've also redone the wiring on my bro's EG wich has dicktator management fitted.However, his dizzy was converted to hall sensor type and there is an external ignitor unit.
If it ain't a honda its not fast enough
Its always easier to work with one ecu instead of a pigyback that runs interference on the fuel, ignitin etc.
live tuning also helps a lot.
Kyoto Racing 4WD Dyno tuning
Which of the OEM sensors get connected with a dicktator?
I know the IACV is still used and either the TPS sensor or MAP(vacuum pipe from intake to Dicktator) is used.
The OEM MAP sensor is not used.Air and water temp sensors are used. A magnetic converter is used without modifying the OEM distributor.
Can the knock sensor be wired to the dicktator?
Is the standard ICM used?
Do all three of the sensors(TDC/CKP/CYP) in the distributor get connected?
If it ain't a honda its not fast enough
on your b20 i would stick with the oem ecu with the piggyback,reason being the oem ecu is sequential fire and dictator being batch fire,the standalone ecu will and should have more features if you further the performance on your motor which in general will be more fetching:as in boostOriginally Posted by v-technician
on the oem ecu you will get better fuel consumption and everyday drivability and hassles free
cul,use it dont use it
Althou the uniq is good and all remember that it has only a limited movement in values used by the engine therefore you will not be able to change values as freely as diktator and will eventually reach a limit if you plannin on going big...
my 3.5 cents
JDM tuning built B20b Civic VTEC
For boosted apps you need the MAP, else TPS works well.
Im not sure about O2 facility, I would guess it has as Gotech has it.
For trigger per event use CYP pickup.
1995 Honda Ballade Carbed D15B SOHC VTEC
I know the replacement for displacement!
I'm currently using my Uni-Q on my B20 no problem. Busy upping the stakes and hope it will still be sufficient. Otherwise full management will need to be considered. Might help you make up your mind. People who have driven my car say it drives like stock...never have start-up issues etc.
Current: '99 Honda Ballade B20V-tec
ODI: 14.457 @ 157 (28 Feb 2010)
Built by VERSLOOT AUTO DYNAMICS (012 250 0145)
Put your money where your mouth is....awaiting my R1000 Juandre
there is only so much that can be tuned with a uni chip i would say go dicktator it my cost abit more but in the long run you will be getting max power out the engine..
Never drive faster than your angels can fly
If you have the money go for the Gotech Pro X, and get the guys there to sort you out with a 60-2 system on the crank or a 24-1 chopper wheel and pick up to go where the stock distributor used to be. Once you've sorted that out, you can run full sequential. Its expensive, but you will make more power than a stock system using a Uni Chip. If you want some info, PM and I'll refer you to a guy that tunes both systems and he can give you some info.
Honda Ballade B18C (Auto Spec) 15.7 @ 142 Km/H - Tarlton 22/05/2009
15.3 @ 151 km/H - ODI
I second that.
Even the Gotech mini x is more tunable than dictator in my opinion and is a far cry from the original gotech systems from a few years ago.
98 civic b20 build in process
ex D15b turbo - 230kw @ 1.5bar
Yes and No.......
I do agree with go...
But factory ecu, has so many "fail safe" features and have been very succesfully done with unichip/uni q, stock inj up to around 170whp and 8500oddrpm.... And some even on up to 290cc injectors...
IMO Its hard to warrant, a full standalone system on a NA below 170whp.
I say this because, if you already have a chip and the combo is not going to make more than 170wheel, then take the car to the dyno and see what the outcome is, sometimes maybe at 170+ you might find inj pwidths getting too high or theres not enough scalabilty on the chip to give you the ideal a/f’s at a certain point or few points, in a range.
This could be the difference bet factory ecu with chip and standalone, in terms of power – sometimes, and from what I have seen from 2-5whp out, depending on how far out you are of the ideal a/f’s with chip, to start with, sometimes its spot on….
If you want to use what you have (ecu+chip) you could play around with f.pressures – but not too much, up or down, 52psi(+-3.5bar) is about the max, or go bigger injectors up to around 290cc with chip, with either combo you could get it right, depends on tuner aswell…
If those don’t work, and you exhausted that, then It would be a good idea to look at a standalone system..
Then you/tuner have to do all the tuning from scratch, starting from the base map.
And although theres a few tuners that do pretty well with the tuning, most local standalone systems have a static map, with rpm vs map/load tables and cant do more then that when the enviro conditions change, with the exceptions of those that do have sensors with active corrections to these……
This also means that A LOT MORE tune time is needed to get even close to the factory system in terms of everyday driving, and in most cases anything other than WOT, the factory system is much more fuel efficient and is less demanding on the injectors, especially vs a batch fired system…..
this generally means bigger injectors needed compared to a seq system, in view of “inj dead times” at high rpm…
The dynamic range of injectors on a seq system is much better, and “saturated injectors” means it even better when you combine the two……:wink:
Its difficult for anyone to say exactly, which is better - but each have there pros and cons - and depnds GREATLY on the engine combo...
Last edited by C2K_TB_TEC_; 29-07-2010 at 17:02.
460kw B20T Street Civic, 400m 800m & 1km speed records
VAD - 012 250 0145
Howzit Siraj
I agree that the standard system plus a chip is damn good value for money, thats why I said; if you have the money. A GoTech Pro X running 24-1 or a 12-1 distributor sensor and running full sequential would be just as fuel efficient as the stock system plus Uni Chip if tuned properly. The thing is; I've seen cars in the VW challenge, the 2.0 8v motors gain 8-10 whp through out the graph when going from a regular Dicktator to a Gotech Pro, and it wasn't some nob that tuned the Dicktator, it was Ross from RBTS. The Gotech Pro X is an advanced system and has a map sensor, and is capable of running a closed loop system, so it can adjust for changes in altitude, and air temp etc ( provide that temp correction and all that will have to be mapped, like you said). You are right, its not necessarily need for the guys making 170whp, but there is no doubt in my mind that you will find power with it, and a 5- 8 hp gain through out the rev range is a big gain. Is is worth the close to 10 grand you going to have to spend to set the whole system up ( minus tuning ) is up to you, but if you looking for a 10 odd hp gain,with out affecting drivability, then its way to go.
Honda Ballade B18C (Auto Spec) 15.7 @ 142 Km/H - Tarlton 22/05/2009
15.3 @ 151 km/H - ODI
Sjoe...I don't have 10k to fork out for a management system...and I think my injectors are 380-400cc. Looking less likely of a chance for my uni-q coping :/
Current: '99 Honda Ballade B20V-tec
ODI: 14.457 @ 157 (28 Feb 2010)
Built by VERSLOOT AUTO DYNAMICS (012 250 0145)
Put your money where your mouth is....awaiting my R1000 Juandre
Just be carefull of the Gotech Pro X.
There are some hidden bugs in the software that only a bench test reveals.
In some applications
Tacho readings are not true, off by up to 120rpm at times.
Ignition advance runs away.
Coil charge times is not steady at all.
1995 Honda Ballade Carbed D15B SOHC VTEC
I know the replacement for displacement!
Thanks for all the replies.
This is quite interesting. From all of the above, the standard ECU with chip is good enough up to certain point.
Dicktator is good but fuelling is not sequential.
The gotech pro X is better due to the fact that it can be set up so that the fuelling is sequential. However, there are some software bugs and it would cost around 10k.
How does the AEM compare? It plugs straight into the factory harness. Does it use all the OEM sensors without any changes in wiring?
If it ain't a honda its not fast enough
If it ain't a honda its not fast enough
Not all do it, I have heard of these related issues with gotech and also from the other local brands...
And I have heard of people, having zero issues with all of them aswell...
460kw B20T Street Civic, 400m 800m & 1km speed records
VAD - 012 250 0145
Hi C2K!Not all do it, I have heard of these related issues with gotech and also from the other local brands...
And I have heard of people, having zero issues with all of them aswell...
You are correct that not all do that.
Most are very reliable.
Maybe we can start a seperate thread on aftermarket ecu bugs?
I wont want to gohere!
1995 Honda Ballade Carbed D15B SOHC VTEC
I know the replacement for displacement!
If my build goes off without an issue for the stock ecu and uni-q...then I think allot of 'theories' will need to be evaluated haha. Interesting post budThanks for all the replies.
This is quite interesting. From all of the above, the standard ECU with chip is good enough up to certain point.
Dicktator is good but fuelling is not sequential.
The gotech pro X is better due to the fact that it can be set up so that the fuelling is sequential. However, there are some software bugs and it would cost around 10k.
How does the AEM compare? It plugs straight into the factory harness. Does it use all the OEM sensors without any changes in wiring?
Current: '99 Honda Ballade B20V-tec
ODI: 14.457 @ 157 (28 Feb 2010)
Built by VERSLOOT AUTO DYNAMICS (012 250 0145)
Put your money where your mouth is....awaiting my R1000 Juandre
Yeah, keep me updated.
Thanks to all the input, we are all learning quite a bit.
If it ain't a honda its not fast enough
Car goes for tune on Tuesday..so will let you know (check my thread). Learning is great...then maybe we can save some unnecessary school fees hahaYeah, keep me updated.
Thanks to all the input, we are all learning quite a bit.
Current: '99 Honda Ballade B20V-tec
ODI: 14.457 @ 157 (28 Feb 2010)
Built by VERSLOOT AUTO DYNAMICS (012 250 0145)
Put your money where your mouth is....awaiting my R1000 Juandre
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